Home Battery vs Grid-Only
A home battery asks for a big check today and promises two things back: cheaper electricity, by storing power when it's cheap and using it when it's expensive, and the lights staying on when the grid goes down. Both are real — but together they often add up to a thinner return than the brochure implies. Whether a battery actually pays back its install cost depends entirely on your peak-vs-off-peak rate gap, how much energy you can shift each day, and how often the power goes out where you live. This page does the honest arithmetic.
Your numbers
This isolates the battery's standalone payback: the net install price against the savings it generates each year. A round-trip efficiency of 90% is baked into the arbitrage math (you lose about a tenth of every kWh you store). It assumes you pay cash, holds your rates and outage pattern flat, and excludes battery degradation, financing interest, and any value from pairing with solar — see the notes below. Enter your real quote, your utility's time-of-use rates, and an honest outage count for the truest answer.
Add a home battery
A big cost upfront (less any rebate), then cheaper peak power and backup during outages — savings that may or may not catch up to the install price.
Net savings over 12 years
—
Net cost after incentive
—
Break-even year
—
Annual arbitrage savings
—
Annual backup value
—
Stay grid-only
Nothing upfront and nothing to maintain — but you forgo the peak savings, and you ride out every outage in the dark.
Net savings over 12 years
$0
Upfront cost
No upfront cost
Savings you forgo
—
During outages
Unprotected — you ride them out
Cumulative net position over time
Where a battery's value comes from
A home battery makes money — or saves it — in a couple of distinct ways, and it helps to keep them separate. The first is time-of-use arbitrage: if your utility charges more for power at peak hours than off-peak, you charge the battery cheaply overnight and discharge it during the expensive window. The savings is the rate gap times the energy you shift, minus the slice you lose to round-trip efficiency (a battery gives back roughly 90% of what you put in). The second is backup: when the grid goes down, the battery keeps your lights, fridge, and Wi-Fi running. We put a dollar value on each outage you'd bridge so it can be weighed against the cost. A third source — using more of your own solar instead of selling it back to the utility at a low rate — isn't modeled here, but it's often the biggest win when a battery is paired with panels.
Why it's often a marginal deal
Here's the honest truth the sales pitch tends to skip: without a big peak/off-peak rate spread or frequent, costly outages, the arbitrage savings alone rarely beats the install cost over the battery's life. Shift 10 kWh a day across a 25-cent spread and you save a few hundred dollars a year — real money, but it takes a long time to claw back a five-figure install. Backup value is genuine but lumpy: if the power almost never goes out, that line is close to zero. Run your real numbers and you'll often find the break-even year lands beyond the battery's warranty. That doesn't mean a battery is a bad purchase — it means it's frequently bought for resilience and peace of mind, not as an investment that pencils out on a spreadsheet.
When it DOES pay off
There are situations where the math flips clearly positive. Steep time-of-use rates — a wide gap between peak and off-peak, or punishing peak-demand charges — make every shifted kWh count for far more. Frequent or expensive outages, whether from storms, wildfire shutoffs, or a flaky local grid, pile up backup value fast, especially if losing power means spoiled food, lost work, or medical equipment going dark. And pairing with solar is the strongest case of all: a battery lets you store your own midday solar and use it at night instead of exporting it for pennies, which can be worth more than arbitrage and backup combined. If two or three of these apply to you, the numbers above will reflect it.
What this simplifies
To keep the payback math legible, a few real-world factors are smoothed over:
- Round-trip efficiency. We assume about 90%, meaning you lose roughly a tenth of every kWh you cycle. Real-world figures range from the mid-80s to low-90s depending on the battery and how it's used.
- Degradation. Batteries fade with use — commonly around 2% of capacity per year — so the energy you can shift, and thus the arbitrage savings, shrinks over time. We hold it flat, which makes the later years here a touch optimistic.
- Backup value is subjective. What an outage is "worth" is a judgment call. We let you set it, but there's no objective market price — a few hours of dark may cost you nothing or a freezer full of food.
- Financing. This assumes cash. A loan adds interest on top of the install price and pushes the break-even year later, sometimes well past the battery's useful life.
About the incentive
The rebate or tax credit is the most variable number on this page. The US federal 30% Residential Clean Energy Credit ended for systems placed in service after December 31, 2025, so a battery you buy outright today gets no federal tax credit — though leased systems can still benefit indirectly, and some states and utilities add their own rebates or pay you to let them tap the battery during grid stress. We treat it as a plain input for that reason. Verify your own eligibility and set the field to what you'll truly receive, not the headline figure.
FAQ
Does this include solar?
No — this is the battery's standalone payback, weighing time-of-use arbitrage and backup value against the install cost on their own. Pairing a battery with solar usually improves the picture, sometimes dramatically: instead of exporting your midday solar to the utility for a low feed-in rate, you store it and use it at night, which can be worth more than peak arbitrage and outage protection combined. If you have or are planning solar, treat the result here as a conservative floor — the real return is likely better.
How long do home batteries last?
Roughly 10 to 15 years for most lithium home batteries, with warranties commonly landing around 10 years or a set number of cycles, whichever comes first. Capacity fades gradually as the battery is used — often in the neighborhood of 2% a year — so a battery near the end of its life shifts noticeably less energy than a new one. This calculator does not model that fade; it holds your shifted energy flat, which makes the later-year savings slightly optimistic. If your break-even year is creeping up against the warranty period, that's a sign the deal is marginal.
Is backup power worth it on its own?
It depends on how you value reliability. If outages are rare and short, a portable generator delivers backup for a small fraction of a battery's cost — it's hard to beat on pure dollars. Where batteries win is on the things a generator can't offer: silent operation, instant switchover the moment the grid drops (no running outside to pull a cord), no fuel to store or smell, and the ability to ride out frequent, brief outages without fuss. If you face regular grid trouble and value that seamlessness, the backup case strengthens; if you just want insurance against a once-a-year storm, a generator is usually the cheaper answer.